{"id":315,"date":"2016-02-14T21:28:04","date_gmt":"2016-02-14T21:28:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/emilytheclimber.me\/?p=315"},"modified":"2017-01-30T07:43:39","modified_gmt":"2017-01-30T07:43:39","slug":"bmc-youth-climbing-series-round-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/emilytheclimber.me\/?p=315","title":{"rendered":"BMC Youth Climbing Series 2016 – Round 1."},"content":{"rendered":"

On 23rd January I competed in the first round of the BMC Youth Climbing Series<\/a> (YCS) for 2016 at the Nottingham Climbing Centre<\/a>. \u00a0It was really fun!<\/p>\n

\"Arriving<\/a>
Arriving at the Nottingham Climbing Centre<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

<\/p>\n

First I looked at the routes because I\u00a0was really anxious about them. I was disappointed because they looked hard and I am not confident in leading. Next I Looked at the boulders and was really happy because they looked better and I thought I could do them.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>
The group warmup<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Afterwards I did a brief \u00a0warm up of skipping then mobilization and easy climbing with some other friends who were also competing. After the briefing we did a group warm up which was run by some older GB team members. Secondly I did some auto belays to prepare for the first climb which, to my disappointment, were routes.<\/p>\n

\"Route<\/a>
Route 1<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Unfortunately I was second in the running order and the person before me had an unlucky slip so I got no extra beta even though it was demoed, however the person doing the demo was taller than me. \u00a0I tried hard but fell after doing the\u00a0wrong hand sequence. I was disappointed because other people in the category got further than I did. \u00a0On the second route I first up but was really determined to do it and get back into the competition. \u00a0On the hardest move I managed to stand up\u00a0really high and got past it without having too much trouble. \u00a0Only one other person managed to do the climb so it gave me a bit more confidence.<\/p>\n

\"Route<\/a>
Route 2<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I was last up on the first boulder problem and managed to get a lot of beta from the other competitors that went before me.<\/p>\n

\"Boulder<\/a>
Boulder 1<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I flashed it without much difficulty and moved on to look at the second climb which looked really reachy and hard.<\/p>\n

Then we had the lunch break and I had fun with my friends that were in the other categories. \u00a0With my lunch I had a berry smoothie which was delicious and gave me energy.<\/p>\n

For boulder two I got onto the climb thinking I would do it by jumping on a really big move most of\u00a0\u00a0the other girls in my category could just reach, but when I tried the move I realised it was much further away than I\u00a0thought and had to try a different method which worked. \u00a0I still flashed the climb and was really happy about it.<\/p>\n

\"Boulder<\/a>
Boulder 2<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Boulder three I was really excited about because if I did it I would have flashed all three boulders. \u00a0I got on the climb with a lot of beta because I had some friends in the boys category who had already done it and told me what they did. \u00a0I messed up my hand sequence half way through but managed to get it back and still flashed\u00a0the climb and that made me even happier.<\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>
A sit-finish at YCS Round 1<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After a short break we went onto route three which we were doing at the same times as the boys in our age category because we both had that climb left to do. \u00a0After watching lots of people fall off on a really dynamic move I was really worried but watched some of my friends get past the move which gave me some confidence that I may be able to do it. \u00a0When it finally came to my turn only one person had done the climb and one person had got to the second-to-last hold so I didn’t have high hopes for it. \u00a0The first section of the climb was not a problem at all an then I got to the really big dynamic move that I’d seen loads of people fall off on before me.<\/p>\n

\"Getting<\/a>
Getting sideways on a route at YCS R1.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I just jumped with all my might and managed to catch the hold! \u00a0Having thought I’d\u00a0got past a lot of the difficulty I relaxed and went for the next move which, to my horror, was horrible and involved a really nasty heel hook and a really scary swing away from my clip. \u00a0I was really pumped at this point and terrified of having a big fall so I panicked and jumped for the next hold and fell off. \u00a0In hindsight I should have done this move differently.<\/p>\n

Even though I could have done this climb better I was really happy with how I’d done and was excited to hear the results. \u00a0When the results were announced I found I was third which I was really happy about considering I was the youngest and shortest girl in the category and didn’t really expect to place.<\/p>\n

\"At<\/a>
At the Nottingham Climbing Centre<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I’m really excited for the next round which is on the 27th February at The Foundry in Sheffield<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

On 23rd January I competed in the first round of the BMC Youth Climbing Series (YCS) for 2016 at the Nottingham Climbing Centre. \u00a0It was really fun!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":true,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}}},"categories":[4,3,5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-315","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-bouldering","category-competitions","category-leading"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p6USQ6-55","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/emilytheclimber.me\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/315"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/emilytheclimber.me\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/emilytheclimber.me\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/emilytheclimber.me\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/emilytheclimber.me\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=315"}],"version-history":[{"count":17,"href":"https:\/\/emilytheclimber.me\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/315\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":631,"href":"https:\/\/emilytheclimber.me\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/315\/revisions\/631"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/emilytheclimber.me\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=315"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/emilytheclimber.me\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=315"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/emilytheclimber.me\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=315"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}